Nikki Buechler
Chutes Coulonge Dec 4, 2021
The Festival of Lights at Chutes Coulonge Park begins with the faint sound of Christmas songs, faintly audible from the parking area.
The winter air on Saturday evening was perfectly still, and there was a thick blanket of fluffy snow, fresh from that morning’s storm. Following the . . .
music, the path led to an open area surrounded by several cheerfully decorated buildings. A roaring fire spread warmth and an orange glow, the entire scene further illuminated by cheerful Christmas lights.
To experience the lights at Chutes Coulonge, there is a bit of walking required. From the reception building, the hike is just over a kilometer.
The path is clearly indicated — the sparkle of Christmas lights provide a surprising amount of colourful illumination, the reflections and refractions of snow provide additional soft light and ambiance.
As one moves along the designated path, the Christmas music fades into the background. It soon merges with, and is subsumed by the sound of constant, powerful, rushing water.
Reaching the observation points overlooking each of the two waterfalls, there is a sense of incongruity. The quietness of the lights twinkling in the darkness, illuminating snow-covered branches — but then there’s the sound.
Looking over the edge, a vast curtain of coloured lights in the distance creates a stunning verisimilitude of the night sky. It is idyllic, though not peaceful: the raging, unrelenting, unceasing force of the water, and the sound as it bounces off unseen surfaces in the canyon gives a sense of a large, unseen space. It is a disorienting and enchanting sensory experience. The waterfalls are strong, and illuminated, but there is a vastness beyond that one can sense, but not see.
The trail is easy to follow. The forest and landscape are such that wind is absorbed and the area feels protected.
Upon returning to the campfire area, Chutes Coulonge director, André Piché, sat down with The Equity over a cup of surprisingly good hot chocolate. “We make it ourselves here. It’s the real stuff,” he said.
As he speaks, it is obvious he is personally invested in the success of the park. “We have breathtaking hiking trails, zip-lines over the water, via ferratta along the canyon walls, and we rent yurts,” he said.
In the short time he has been here, he has worked hard to increase awareness of this stunning location, and the effort seems to be paying off: “We are having our best season ever,” he said. Piché has an eye for detail, and a multitasking mindset. “I am the director, but I’m not sitting in an office writing grant reports, I’m chopping wood and taking care of guests.”
As Piché spoke, he kept a constant, watchful eye on the crowd, alacritous in his response to the slightest perception of need. Nearby, Santa handed out candy canes in the softly lit snow next to the warm fire.
“We were so lucky Santa Claus could come tonight,” Piché said. “Santa was so busy for the first two nights of our light festival — he couldn’t make it. So guess what task the director got to do on those nights,” he laughed.
The illuminated nighttime walk is open every Friday and Saturday night until December 18, and also December 27 and 28. Hours are 6-10pm. It is suitable for children, dogs are welcome (on leash) and Santa Claus will be there.
